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Feb 25, 2009. A few tasting notes from a previous dinner

2005 Francois Raveneau Butteaux . Minerality more covered up by fruit than usual. Try not to overchill this - nice acidity - very nice balance - good finish. Still prefer the 2002 though. 92+pts. 2006 Fontaine Gagnard - Chassange Montrachet 1er Cru Clos St. Jean Opened for ~30minuts. Denser, brasher, minerality backed up by power. Kept unwinding throughout the night - give this time. 90 pts. 2005 George Roumier Chambolle Musigny Opened in bottle for ~3.5 hours - needs it. Red fruits laced with a bit of earth and game. Structured, fine tannins - amazing village wine. 90 pts. 2005 Duhart Milon Rothschild Opened for ~2 hours. Young, full bodied, expansive, cassis, touch of pencil, traces of Lafite but not quite as this is more brawny without the complex aromas. Hey but given the price - no complaints! Serve at room temperature or a bit above ~19-21 C, no problems and may make it a bit less rough on the edges. 92 points. 1999 Chateau Palmer Opened for ~1.5 hours. Ahhh the 2nd disciple. An...

Dinner with Lodovico Antinori & Tenuta di Biserno

A few years back, I mentioned about a wine that stood out on a trip to Tuscany. That wine was called Isoglio del Cinghiale. After some fact checking, the people behind this winery were none other than Lodovico & Piero Antinori - the previous owner(s) of Tenuta Ornellia. Fast forward almost 2.5 years later and we had a very special treat - dinner with Lodovico in person. Insoglio is basically their everyday drinking product. Up until 2005, it was a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petite Verdot and Cab. Franc. Starting in 2006, Syrah was added to the blend and by 2007 I believe Cabernet Sauvignon was completely eliminated. Going forward from the 2007 the blend of varietals have pretty much "settled" in. Given the price point of this wine which is ~ EUR15, no complaints. More than acceptable as an everyday quaffer. Next up is the Il Pino di Biserno which is a more Bordeaux-like blend and does not contain any Syrah unlike the Insoglio. This is a much more complex wine a...

January 9, 2009. A couple more tastings

A couple more tried over the week. 2006 Leroy Bourgone Aligote Good acidity, minerality present but had hints of wet cardboard. Suspect this one was "slightly" corked. 2006 Craggy Range "Le Sol" Gimblett Gravels Extremely ripe primary syrah notes; you know the type where there is a note of "roach spray". I don't know how else to describe it but the fruit has a hint of something coming out of a can of Baygon. Very one-dimensional at this stage - perhaps evaluate in another 7-10 years; it's going to be a while. 1998 Haut Brion. Doing well now; this looks to be an early drinker by Haut Brion standards. A little air (45minutes) is all it needs. This vintage is underlined by the aromas of the earth - you can smell the soil. Tannins are quite fine and the mid-palate is full but will thin out over a span of 2 hours.... Not a vintage to go into the history books but good now - why wait?

Happy New Year!!

Another year has gone by - time certainly flies. Been getting lazy posting tasting notes so new year's resolution is to be more deligent. Here goes.... 1998 Billecart Salmon Cuvee Nicholas Brilliant Pinot Noir smell gushing out just on the pour. On the palate, it was Chardonnay dominating. Quite good but the Chardonnay and Pinot could be a bit more integrated which will take time. 92+ points. 2004 Michel Niellon Chassange Montrachet 1er Cru Clos St. Jean On the nose, bright flecks of minerality and acidity. The palate could not follow through what was promised on the nose - bit diluted/thin on the core though it had nice acidity and a finish. 90 points. 2006 Domaine Leroy Aligote Minerals, acidity on the nose and on the palate. Nervosity and a bit of sharpness on the mouth. Needs a little bit of air (30minutes)to balance out. Chablis-like. Had 2 bottles in as many months - the latest one was defective. Flat, no fruit or minerals and a bit oxidised. Previous bottle was much better. ...

Cool Videos from Wilson & Daniels

Found this surfing one day - thought it was kind of cool. Brought to you by Wilson & Daniels (US importer for the Domains). You might have to click the play/pause button a few times to get it going. Domaine Leflaive: A Path to Follow from Wilson Daniels on Vimeo . Domaine Pierre Morey: Generations in Harmony from Wilson Daniels on Vimeo . House of Champagne Salon: A Century of Singularity from Wilson Daniels on Vimeo .

Henri Jayer, Meo Camuzet & Emmanuel Rouget - what's the connection

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These 3 producers often seem intertwined together and spoken in the same breath. What is the relationship here? Well, another walk down history is in order. Henri Jayer was born in Vosne Romanee in 1922. In the late 1930's Henri helped his father Eugene tend the vineyards and in 1942 married Marcelle Rouget. Right at the end of WWII, Henri Jayer made a deal with the Camuzet family to tend their Premier Cru and Grand Cru parcels and produce wine for them. The catch was that Henri would keep 50%  under his own labels. Among these vineyards were Echezeaux, Richebourg and the famed Cros Parantoux 1er Cru.  Cros Parantoux was born in 1978 solely due to the efforts of Henri Jayer and alot of dynamite!! Location-wise it is sandwiched in between "Le Barreaux" on top, Richebourg below and "Le Petite Mons" to the left of it.  Stylistically it has more than a passing resemblance to Richebourg. Starting in the late '80s Jean-Nicolas Meo started working the Meo-Camuzet p...

神の雫 - The 12 disciples so far

『神の雫』 For those who have been following the ongoing Japanese Manga Series you know what I'm talking about. Well, I was a bit frustrated trying to find a convenient place to keep track of the "12 disciples" appearing in the series ( 5 have shown themselves so far) - s0 hear it is. Will update this as they appear. In the meantime here you go! 1. 2001 - George Roumier Chambolle Musigny Amoureuses  2. 1999 - Chateau Palmer  3. 2000 - Domaine Pegau Cuvee de Capo 4. 1994 - Chateau Lafleur 5. 2000 - Michell Colin Deleger - Chevalier Montrachet

June 2, 2008. Burgundy tasting of the year (probably)

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Sometimes, we just don't know how good we have it. May 28th was such a day. An incredible lineup of wines. If that wasn't enough Alan Meadows aka the Burghound was present to talk us through these wines. I will not bore you with individual tasting notes but just suffice to say that there were some great wines - it's just that side by side you begin to split hairs. Chambertin and Musigny are definitely a cut above Grand Echezeaux. Just more complex. This statement is probably heresy to some and completely obvious to others. Can't win. Comte de Vogue Musigny is variable and I'm not sure it's quite all there. Something to mull over given the high prices. On the other hand the 1990 Musigny is a butterfly finally coming out of it's 18 year cocoon. This will need another 7-10 years? - but it's a knockout. Armand Rosseau Chambertin. Amazing wine, year after year. Best white of the night '99 CM. Some people liked the '90 but to me that shouldn't be w...

March 30, 2008. Small New Zealand Wineries Part 5. Himmelsfeld Vineyard

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In this final part of this series, I would like to introduce readers to an extremely small winery which pays serious attention to their vines. Himmelsfeld vineyard began in 1991 when owner Elizabeth(Beth) Eggars decided to try something else besides nursing. Nestled on a gentle hill in Upper Moutere , the 10.5ha property has about 1.5ha dedicated to growing Cabernet Sauvignon , Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc (roughly equal split). The rest of the land is still home to an apple orchard and many sheep! Total production for all wines is roughly about 600+ cases so odds are you will not see this too often overseas. In fact, don't think we saw it in shops while in New Zealand either. Of the many wineries visited - Beth struck me as one who puts emphasis on the Vineyard first and wine making second. She is adamant that "great wines are made in the vineyard", something which I hear echoed in the most zealous ( and coincidentally top notch) Burgundy producers. Her vineyard...

March 25, 2008. Small NZ Wineries Part 4. Ruby Bay Vineyard

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Established in 2002 by Sam and Audrey Watt from what was an apple orchard, this small vineyard makes microscopic amounts of wine. We found this place mainly due to the attractive accommodations but the wines are something of a surprise bonus. The vineyard currently spans over 5 hectares with vine densities of 2600 vines per hectare. The soil here is predominantly clay from the Moutere area. What I would really like to highlight here is their 2007 SV Sauvignon Blanc which is one of the best expressions of New Zealand SB I have had this trip and perhaps the top handful I have had from New Zealand. Ladies and Gentlemen, I'm not going to mince words here - if what you want is a light, tart and aromatic quaffing wine then this is not it. Sometimes, I am convinced that the British wine trade wants to box in New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc as aromatic, tart thin thirst quenchers to serve before the serious wines- bullocks. If that's what people think will sell then it becomes a self-...

March 24, 2008. New Zealand Wineries Part 3 - Woollaston

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This one is not exactly a small winery and definitely a bit more flashy than many others. Woollaston Estates was formed in 2000 - with some creative passion. You can see that in the design of the winery building itself as well as the myriad pieces of art and sculptures around. This one is worth going to just to check out the architecture. While I cannot say that I was impressed with most of their offerings - one did stand out to me and that was their Pinot Noir. Vines are still young but there is a balance here which I find lacking in many others. This is one of the better Pinot if not the best I tried on this trip. Looking at a design of their winery it seems to be designed around letting gravity lead the flow through the winemaking process . This can only mean it was designed around the careful handling of Pinot Noir. To me, you can taste a big difference in quality between the Pinot and their other wines. It was as if the other wines were intended for bulk sale in order to finance ...

Small New Zealand Wineries Part 2

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Clos Henri is a relatively new entrant to the Wairau valley of the Marlborough wine growing region. This property is also located close to Renwick and is actually opened by the Bourgeois family from the Sancerre region in France. The first vines were planted in 2001 with emphasis on bringing out the terroir. There are a multitudes of soils here but they essentially are either clay based or rocky riverbed. Their "Bel Echo" offerings of Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir show definite minerality and bely the rocky riverbed soil which it was planted on. The "Clos Henri" series on the other hand definitely is more earthy, rich and deep being planted on predominantly clay. Of all the wines tasted in this region - these wines strike me as the most "terroir transparent" I have tried so far. Their vine planting densities are some of the highest around here of around 5000 vines per hectare. I have high hopes for this property in the future as their vines begin to acq...

Small New Zealand Wineries Part 1

Te Whare Ra ( "Tee Faree Ra" is supposed to mean house in the Sun in Maori) is based in Marlborough New Zealand. This is on the south Island in the town of Renwick which is host to quite a few wineries including Cloudy Bay, Montana etc... Established in 1979, this small boutique winery probably has some of the oldest vines in the area. In 2003, the husband and wife team of Jason & Anna Flowerday took the helm and have significantly upgraded various aspects of the winery. Although offering a Pinot Noir, IMHO they are a white wine producer with offerings mainly from Sauvignon Blanc, Reisling, Gerwurztraminer and Chardonnay. It's their aromatic wines which to me show their stuff here. Current size of the vineyards ~9 hectares with many coming from the older vines planted in 1979 ( almost 30 years ago) - I was told the Gerwurztraminer. Fruit is basically hand sorted and picked - now we are talking. Cutting to the chase, my favorite wines from their lineup would be the...

March 17, 2008. Chateauneuf Du Pape followup.

A bit more than 1/2 year ago, we were in Chateauneuf du Pape. Anyway long story short. The sommelier at Beaucastel came up with a short video clip to explain the varietals and the philosophy going into CdP and Beaucastel in particular. Enjoy http://www.dailymotion.com/register/ccbc48fdeb59759ac171c670f/7478619 P.S. Just got back from the South Island of NZ so expect something here on wines from Malborough and Nelson areas.

December 22, 2007. Christmas time is here

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It's hard to believe that a year has almost gone by and Christmas Time is here. In getting into the holiday rhythm, I went looking for some music only to find most of it unsatisfying (surprise, surprise). There are exceptions, and here I think is one of them. December 1965, "A Charlie Brown Christmas" was aired and became an instant standard. Most people will remember the Charles Schultz cartoon along with the catchy tunes. Upon listening to the recent 2006 re-master of this album by Fantasy records, I was amazed. This is so much better than coming out of a 14 inch mono TV. Arranged & composed by Vince Guaraldi, there is an underlying quality of happiness and cheer to the music. Perhaps it brings back happy memories of my childhood but I think it is intrinsic to the music. Guaraldi to me, has the lyrical qualities of Bill Evans together with the rhythm and swing of a Dave Brubeck - it is a shame he died of a heart attack at an age of 47 between sets at a jazz club. T...

October 13, 2007 - Pouilly Fuisse

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Pouilly Fuisse should not really be mixed up with Pouilly Fume although it happens. While both are white wines Pouilly Fuisse is rightfully Chardonnay and Burgundian. The other Pouilly is from the Loire Valley and is made from Sauvignon Blanc ( to be covered someday!). While Pouilly-Fuisse is an appelation on to itself it would be a shame not to give the individual terroirs recognition also. There are 4 villages in the appelation: Vergisson, Solutre-Pouilly, Fuisse and Chaintre and arguably 5 terroirs as Solutre and Pouilly are distinctive. From a distance the twin rocks of Vergisson and Solutre are a clear giveaway that you have arrived. The certain soil zones around these rocks are limestone and give the wines that mineral taste which is lacking or more subdued in the other communes outside of Vergisson, Solutre and Pouilly. The 5 terroirs within Pouilly-Fuisse are : Vergisson - mineral driven, punchy with acidic backbone. Solutre - mineral driven but softer with pronounced acidity. ...

October 1, 2007. Some Burgundies and a Pinot

2005. Vincent Girardin Santenay 1er Cru Les Gravieres. Fruit, minerals, acidity, fine tannins - feels as if one could feel the sun shining down. I don't think you can really ask for more in a Santenay - I think this is an amazing value. True balance here, if this is a good representation of the '05 vintage then I would say that it takes the best attributes of '02 and '03 together. 91pts. 2004 J.F Mugnier Nuit St. George 1er Cru. Clos de la Marechale. Good depth of fruit, acidity, mid palate. Very good showing for a 2004. Unfortunately, the 2005 Santenay came before it. 90 pts. 2005 Felton Road. Block 5 Pinot Noir. Very Generous fruit and good tannins, aromatically less complicated than the previous 2 Burgundies. Given the price of this, I'm not sure it's really worth the money. It's just not as complex as the previous wines. 89pts.

September 29 - Beaucastel Part.2

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A visit to Beaucastel isn't complete without trying some so off to the tasting room.... 2006 - Beaucastel Blanc. The Roussane grape is dominant with 80% (small percentage of 60 year old vines) and another 20% comprised of Grenache Blanc (10-40 year old vines). Honey, flowers, good acidity and a minerality. Good to serve on the cool side i.e. 10-12 centrigrade. 2006 - Beaucastal Blanc Vielle Vignes Again made of Roussane but this time 100% pure and straight up. The vines are old (I'm told 78 years). Production is absolutely miniscule at 6000 bottles per annum ( sorry now 5999 for '06). With the Roussane variety I am told you either drink it within 5 years of the vintage of 10 years later. The 5-10 year period is supposed to be a funky phase where the wine shouts down and appears oxidised. Strangely enough I have not it during this phase but have had ones over 10 years - you will be nicely surprised. The RVV belies it's age in comparison to Beaucastel Blanc - you can te...

September 24, 2007. Beaujolais

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T he fresh, bubble gum like wine known as Beaujolais Nouveau released on 3rd week of November is what most people think of when this appelation is mentioned. Beaujolais rouge is made with the Gamay grape and actually encompases 3 categories. 1. Regular Beaujolais - Beaujolais Nouveau is a part of this. 2. Beaujolais Village - 38 communes claim this category. Again Nouveau can come from this. 3. Beujolais Cru - These consists of 10 vineyards : Brouilly The largest Vineyard with 1300 hectares at the foot of Mount Brouilly. Annual production : 10million bottles. Really massive production not really that interesting. Chenas The smallest vineyard with 280 hectares. Annual production : 2.1 million bottles. One of the better Crus. Chiroubles Situated at 400 meters is the highest of the vinyards. 370 hectares. Annual production 2.7 million bottles Cote de Brouilly On the slopes of mount Brouilly. 320 hectares. Annual production : 2.4 million bottles Fleurie 870 hecta...

September 20th, 2007, A visit to Chateau de Beaucastel - Part 1

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A visit to Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape. What does this word usually mean to you? Strong, robust, rustic, wild, wooly, complex, monolithic all the above? Several hundred years ago it was none of the above. In the 1300's, the papal court moved to the city of Avignon along with the papacy of Pope Clement V due to political reasons. So ensued several generation of French Popes called the "Avignon papacy". South from Avignon in the village of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, the papacy made their summer homes and encouraged the growing of vines in the surrounding areas of Bedarrides, Sourgues and Corthezon. It was at this time that the wines became known as "Vin du Pape". It was not until 1923 when the first Appellation controlee rules were drafted under the leadership of Baron Le Roy that Publish Post Chateauneuf-Du-Pape AOC was born. In fact, this probably was the first AOC and the precursor of the various regulations to come later on. Returning to Corthezon, ...